I was enthralled by the Reef upon my first visit back in May and immediately wanted to share my thoughts with the world at large. However, I convinced myself that more in-depth research was necessary, and so I’ve spent the last several months speaking with the owners, the chef, the waitresses, and the bartenders (mostly the bartenders) as well as touring the Reef’s menu offerings, from exotic beverages to organic appetizers and entrees. The things I do for you people.First, let’s talk theme. The Reef’s tropical saltwater theme is mirrored in the larger than life coral growing from the sides of the curvilinear bar, as well as the handful of tanks full of colorful sealife, from clown fish to sea cucumbers. It was the fish tanks that first drew me in…the largest tank, offset from the center of the room, has plenty of seating around it so that you can enjoy the clownfish cavorting while you sip on one of the more exotic ales from the tap.Which brings us to the beverages, of course. From Alagash White with its “subtleties of fruit and clove” to Wolavers Pale Ale “strictly and successfully brewed with fresh organic ingredients,” you’d be hard-pressed to choose poorly when it comes to drafts at the Reef. These and other rarities (ladies, I recommend the Framboise Lambic…but take the small, not the whole pint…too much of the bubbly-raspberry will wear down your taste buds in no time) are offered alongside classic stand-bys such as Guinness, Harp, Bass, and perennial fave (read “cheap”) Red Hook IPA.

On to the menu! The Reef is on the forefront of the local organic trend…already, new restaurants and lounges are popping up in Adams Morgan claiming to be organic. While not certified 100% organic, the menu — under the apt guidance of chef Sam Adkins - strives to live up the Reef’s ideal of “honest food.” Produce served at the Reef is grown without toxic pesticides and fertilizers, and the meats and poultry are free range. The fish, too, are purchased only from sustainable fisheries.

So what does that all mean? Healthier, better-tasting food, in theory. I only say in theory because most people would probably debate the healthiness of flourless dark chocolate cake and Gran Marnier orange rind — but I’m getting ahead of myself. Of the appetizers, the housemade hummus is the clear winner — I’d go as far as saying it’s better than what I previously held to be the best hummus in the city, that of the Lebanese Taverna. From the entrees, it’s a tough call what with the variety of options, but I’d err on the side of the Blackened Catfish if only for the novelty of the fried pickle chips that come with it. The Vegetable Risotto is a clear favorite, and the Bowtie Pasta with Arugula-Basil Pesto is not bad at all.

Of course, many people show up at the Reef just to hang out and toss back a few beverages - and as far as that goes, the Reef is quickly becoming a contender for favorite neighborhood gin joint. The main room is spacious, so even during peak crowd conditions, it’s easy to navigate. And, while the weather still remains warm, a roof-top deck to rival Perry’s can’t be missed.

The crowd itself at the Reef tends to be mixed, from neighborhood regulars to an eclectic grouping of…well, let’s just say if you took a handful of Eighteenth Street Lounge regulars and a handful of Black Cat regulars and mixed ‘em up real good, you’d have some idea of what a typical night at the Reef would reveal people-wise.

Speaking of the crowd, what I enjoy most about the Reef is the skillful crowd control. The bouncers keep the place from over-crowding, and regulate the lines pretty well. I have yet to see anyone successfully jump ahead, cut-in, or pretend to be a v.i.p. just to get inside before everyone else. At the Reef, there is no list. Of course, the strict crowd-control comes with a price: be prepared to stand in line if you’re showing up late in the evening. Nevertheless, kudos to the bouncers.

Look for more wonderfulness later this month as the Reef owners open up Lush, a more flora-themed lounge complete with over-sized Tiki masks and yards of greenery, next to the Reef entrance.